Cliffside Fira Above Old Port
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Stunning Santorini Cruise Port Day: Oia & Cable Car

Why are we in Santorini?

Back in April, 2025 we traveled to Europe for the first time. Hesitant as we were to travel by land, figuring out transportation and hotels, we instead booked a cruise aboard the Celebrity Apex taking us from Barcelona, Spain, through the Strait of Gibraltar stopping in Lisbon and then Porto, Portugal, with one more stop in La Coruña, Spain before ending in Southampton England. In addition to those ports, we spent two amazing days touring Barcelona before boarding, and two more whirlwind days in London after disembarking.  Everything we experienced is in our collection of Celebrity Apex Barcelona to Southampton (2025) trip reports.

Not long after we came home, a familiar itch to cruise Europe returned, and we began researching Celebrity’s 2026 itineraries. One particular sailing stood out: it departed Barcelona once again, this time sailing east with ports in Valletta (Malta), Kusadasi (Turkey), and the Greek islands of Mykonos and Santorini before ending in Piraeus (Athens). While we are all about the destinations, it was also incredibly cool that this cruise would be aboard Celebrity’s shiny new Edge-class ship, the Xcel, which had not yet launched when we booked. Who knew back then that the Xcel would be ready early and we’d have the opportunity to sail on her preview cruise –  certainly not us.

Well we’ve just come back from that 2026 sailing from Barcelona to Athens, and this post is all about our Celebrity Xcel Santorini cruise port day. If you haven’t already done so, check out our Mykonos port day post to read about the port that totally surprised us.

The Last Full Day

The last full day of the sailing was upon us. That’s always a bit sad. But also a little annoying because we knew we had to fit in packing in order to have our luggage outside our room this evening. The good news was we were not awoken by the unexpected racket of weighing anchor like we were in Mykonos. That’s because the ship doesn’t actually anchor in Santorini, nor can it dock.

Santorini sits in an active, flooded volcanic crater (caldera). Unlike the relatively shallow waters at Mykonos, the caldera is too deep for anchoring, so the Xcel relied on Dynamic Positioning Systems (DPS) to keep it in the same spot. This means the ship was essentially hovering in place with constant adjustments to deal with the wind and waves. It’s quite the interesting concept, especially since tender boats load and unload passengers while the ship moves.

Celebrity Xcel from Cliffside Fira
Celebrity Xcel from Cliffside Fira

Santorini’s Two Cruise Ports

Santorini has no cruise piers, relying on two ports to which cruise passengers tender. First is the Old Port of Fira, the primary tender port for independent travelers or passenger booked on private tours. It is situated directly beneath the island’s capital town of Fira, and has no vehicle or road access. You get up to Fira by either riding the Santorini Cable Car or walking up 580+ switchback steps that are festooned with donkey poop. Donkey rides up the steps are another option, but that’s neither recommended nor particularly humane. Lines for the cable car can exceed an hour or longer when more than one ship is visiting, and there’s not much shade for protection.

Santorini Cruise Port Day - Old Port - Cable Car & Switchback Steps to Fira
Old Port – Cable Car & Switchback Steps to Fira

Athinios Port is the second option, but is heavily used by local shipping and vehicle ferries. For cruise passengers, it is strictly limited to those who booked shore excursions with the cruise line. Unlike the Old Port, tour buses and other vehicles can access this commercial port via a winding, switchback road carved into the cliff side. The buses park on the pier and drive passengers up the cliff.

We knew the Margaritaville Beachcomber was joining the Xcel in Santorini this morning, so to avoid the madness at the Old Port, we had booked a very specific shore excursion through Celebrity nine months prior while it was on a good sale. That excursion description indicated a bus would take us from and to the tender pier, so we were confident we could avoid the cable car. More on that later. 

The Xcel was set to be in Santorini from 7 AM with the final tender returning to the ship at 7:15 PM. Our excursion group didn’t meet until 1 PM, giving us the morning on the ship. Breakfast at Luminae was the first order of business, so up to deck 16 we elevated where Mario and Kendra were ready for us. Coffee (thank you, universe), plus ham, mushroom and cheese omelette for me and the breakfast wrap – egg whites, spinach, tomato & swiss – for Rona, minus the wrap.

Luminae Breakfast Menu - Day 6
Luminae Breakfast Menu

After breakfast, we did some preliminary packing to avoid spending precious evening hours doing it. From our veranda, the views of the cliffs on which Fira sits were stunning. It truly puts into perspective the scale of the switchback steps climbing up, and why you might want to avoid them. 

We had time to lose at two more trivia contests this morning, and so went down to The Club for 10 AM general trivia, figuring we’d at least be competitive and then probably embarrass ourselves at the 10:30 AM geography trivia. Lo and behold, there was only one other team competing, and we won ourselves a primo deck of Celebrity-branded playing cards with our deep and oftentimes useless knowledge of all things general. Apparently, people were more interested in getting to Santorini this morning than winning a deck of cards! Not wanting to appear too greedy, we skipped geography and wished our competitor the very best of luck.

After some unobstructed Santorini photos from the pool deck and a quick and unremarkable lunch at the buffet – it’s always about the food – it was time to meet our excursion group back at The Club. A few different excursions were meeting there, so we checked in and hung out until they called our group close to 1 PM. A friendly crew member led us down through the Grand Plaza to deck 2, where a tender waited next to the repositioned magic carpet.

Cliffside Fira Above Old Port
Cliffside Fira Above Old Port

The tour we booked is called Destination Highlight: Island Drive and Village Oia. A tour bus would bring us from the Athinios Port up to Oia, the cliffside village on the north edge of the island, where the cool kids take all their Instagram selfies of blue-domed churches with the caldera in the background. After some time there, the bus would take us to a local winery for wine tasting and snacks. Finally, we’ll drive to the capital city, Fira, with time to wander about before the bus would return us to the port to tender back to the ship.

We had booked this excursion during a flash sale nine months before the sailing for $115 per person. That excursion never went on sale again as far as we know, and as embarkation day approached, the price had risen to $200 per person. We considered ourselves lucky, and the investment worth the transportation to Oia and back while avoiding the risk of a 1 – 3 hour wait for the cable car.

The tender to Athinios Port was fairly smooth and took about 15 minutes. We climbed aboard our designated tour bus that waited right beside the small pier. Soon after 1:30 PM the bus was slowly climbing the busy switchback road up the cliff. For those afraid of heights, it can be a bit harrowing, so just stare at your phone.

Between occasional traffic on the switchback and narrow island roads, the scenic drive to Oia across the length of the island took about 45 minutes. A tour guide sitting at the front of the bus explained how the tour would work and what we were seeing along the way. She explained that after we parked in Oia, she would lead us up to the main village center where we would have about an hour to walk around before needing to meet back at the bus. 

Exploring Oia

Eventually, the bus parked in the “Touristic Bus” parking lot along the Fira-Oia road, and our tour guide led us to a sun-drenched cobblestone path with wide stone steps every few feet, which climbed steeply up to the main road. On our right was the public bus parking lot, in which sits public restrooms, though we didn’t stop there. She led us like a mother goose across the main road toward the main village center. 

As we continued to climb upward, the path became tight, flanked on both sides by high-end boutique shops, art galleries, and cafes. Soon, the narrow lane opened up onto Oia’s main square, revealing the striking facade of the Virgin Mary of the Akathist Hymn Church – a.k.a. Panagia Platsani. From the Panagia Platsani square, the blue-domed church with its towering six-bell tower rising against the sky would and probably has made a great postcard.

It was here in the square that our tour guide set us free, with the dire warning that we all needed to be back at the bus by 3:30 PM, or we’d have to find our own way back. Sheep that we are — at least for now — we’d be sure to be there. Meanwhile, we headed off to the right along the narrow main drag, Nikolaou Nomikou Street. This marble-paved promenade runs along the rim of the caldera, with fancy pants boutiques, touristy souvenir shops and loads of restaurants on both sides. 

There are alleyways leading off toward and away from the cliff’s edge. We found a public restroom down one such alley to our right and after forking over one euro coin each to the attendant, we were directed into the men’s or lady’s purely based on which was less busy, which was… different. They were clean, at least.

Back onto the busy road, we stumbled into just the right alleyway for one of those Instagram selfies overlooking the caldera, with the blue-domed churches in full view. We were only third in line to walk down the steps to that perfect lookout.

We exchanged photo taking responsibilities with a young midwestern couple. It was only when we returned home that we realized there were supposed to be three blue-domed churches in view, not just the two we got – Agios Spyridon and Anastasi.

We spent the rest of the time up there taking pictures and checking out some of the shops. From the Caldera Path Lookout, there’s amazing views of the calm deep blue water of the flooded volcanic caldera, the cliff top capital, Fira way in the distance, the volcanic island of Thirassia, and the historic cave houses that cascade down the cliff side. Seamen and farmers carved these directly into the soft volcanic cliffs in the 18th and 19th centuries. Nowadays, they’re occupied by tourists or wealthy expats.

On our way back to the bus, we bought some magnets for family and friends and a Santorini t-shirt for me, before stopping off for a quick sit down with some delicious gelato and a crispy bottle of Coke Zero for $9. 

Winery, Fira, the Cable Car

Back down the hill and onto the bus – no one left behind – and 15 minutes later our tour pulled into the parking lot of Anhydrous Winery. Another tour was here at the same time but everyone fit along two long tables in a sheltered outdoor courtyard. Servers brought mezze to the tables to share while the host explained each type of wine we were sampling.

This included a white, a rose and a red. The wine was quite nice and the mezze of cheese, locally grown volcanic tomatoes, and hummus was delicious. This experience lasted about 45 minutes, and we were back on the bus for the short drive to Fira.

At about 4:45 PM the bus let us out in a small lot and our tour guide explained that we would have about an hour to check out Fira and then we could either take the bus back to Athinios Port or we could make our own way back via the cable car. This wasn’t the first time she mentioned this option and it felt to us like she was kind of hoping nobody would need the bus back from Fira.

She also alluded to a restaurant she quite liked and would be going to for those interested. We, however, were in search of the elusive $5 gyro we did not find in Mykonos, and so navigated the super narrow sidewalk on Daneze Street up to Dekigala Street, which featured a bunch of local spots to grab a bite.

This street is slightly inland and so there aren’t many views, but there is the Museum of Prehistoric Thera and Theotokopoulos Square with its surrounding cafes and shops. We wandered along the paved stone pedestrian-only part of the street.

On one side we found Souvlaki, Gyro, Pita & More and a €4.80 gyro. That was close enough to $5 to suit us! We sat at a small table in front and relished this hearty snack that was stuffed with lamb, french fries and tzatziki. Delicious!

Thinking we needed some late afternoon caffeine, Google Maps led us down some wide paved steps in what seemed like another random alleyway and then into another alleyway, this one sheltered. Thira Bakery sits on the ground floor of the building on the left and has table seating right outside.

As opposed to our gyro stop, there was a bit of a language barrier here, but we gamely persisted and came away with a cookie and a couple of coffees, which were not made entirely to our liking — adding cream to coffee isn’t a thing here unless you order a latte. We sat at one of the alley tables and drank maybe half of our super strong coffees and ate the melting cookie, which was okay. For $7.50, all-in, no complaints. The one guy in the bakery was incredibly nice.

After climbing out of the various alleys, we crossed back over Dekigala Street, heading for the Caldera Pedestrian District, sometimes known locally as the Caldera Alleyways or the Old Market. Whatever it was called, this was where there were loads more shops, views of the caldera and the cable car. 

Whereas Oia’s main village along the caldera is upscale, arty and romantic with iconic, blue-domed views, Fira’s pedestrian district is more commercial and urban. There are several repetitive jewelry shops, souvenir stands, bars and local fast-food joints. Oddly, this was more our style, almost reminiscent of the Jersey Shore but with way better architecture and food and without any arcades. Okay, it was nothing like the Jersey Shore.

We paused outside a shop selling beauty products when the young woman there busily complimented Rona on how young she looked in advance of trying to draw her into the store. No easy mark, we moved on. We did pop into a souvenir shop near the cable car and picked up a few gifts. 

The view down into the caldera beside the cable car was breathtaking and no photo really does it justice.

It was at this point we noticed there was absolutely no wait for the cable car down. Since we had that as an option, rather than walking all the way back to the bus, taking the bus back to Athinios Port, and a somewhat longer tender back to the ship, we decided to spring for the cable car down to Old Port. For $23, we got to take a pretty cool ride down the cliffside – it moves fast!

Looking up from the Old Port gives you a staggering look at the cliffs leading up to Fira. We then queued up for the tender and about five minutes later we were in a full boat along with some of the entertainers from the Bazaar shows.

View of Fira from Old Port, Santorini
View of Fira from Old Port, Santorini

The ride back was pretty bumpy this time, but also pretty quick and by 6 PM we were back on board obtaining iced teas at Café Al Bacio and heading for our cabin to clean up and finish packing.

Our Santorini cruise port day overall was a good experience. It’s a stunning place unlike anything we’d ever seen. The tour in and of itself served its primary purpose of transportation to and from Oia, and avoiding long cable car lines getting up to Fira. The winery was enjoyable and we are glad we booked this excursion. Recently Santorini has been more severely limiting use of Athinios Port for cruise passengers, which puts an additional strain on the Old Port and cable car.

Final Night on Board

With our luggage packed and standing outside our stateroom, we got ourselves semi-gussied up and headed down to the Grand Plaza for our final cocktails at the Martini Bar. Rona ordered her favorite Contessa gin and diet tonic while I went with my regular Martini Bar drink, the Martinez.  There was no entertainment then, so we just took it all in one final time while the default Grand Plaza music played in the background. 

As tomorrow involved a really early disembarkation in Athens (Piraeus) and Acropolis tour, the plan tonight was dinner at Luminae followed by the late show in the theater, then bed.

After relishing the final sips of our Martini Bar cocktails, we made our last journey up to deck 16, forward for one final meal at Luminae. It was strangely bittersweet knowing this was the last time we’d see Mario and Kendra, who we felt like we’d gotten to know. Really it was the same for our Retreat Butler, Vengai, as well as Sarah in the speakeasy. We would be sure to name them and all the other crew members who made this sailing special in the Celebrity post cruise survey.

Luminae Night 7 - Dinner Menu
Luminae Night 7 – Dinner Menu

Our final dinner on board started out as so many had, with Luminae’s excellent iced tea for Rona and an old fashioned for me. As with all but one dinner at Luminae, I ordered the shrimp cocktail starter and we both opted for the Tea Cured Salmon appetizer. For entrees, Rona picked the Bucatini, but instead of the creamy red sauce, they were able to make it with garlic and olive oil. Mario also insisted on adding a lobster tail, and who are we to argue? I ordered the chef’s off-menu Surf and Turf special.

Shortly after we ordered and indulged in the bread service, Kendra brought out a cod croquette amuse bouche, which was all kinds of crispy and savory. I always viewed the shrimp cocktail, which consists of four “large” shrimp, as the starter to the appetizer. The cured salmon appetizer was tasty, subtle and not too salty. The horseradish marshmallow it came with was fluffy and surprisingly sweet, until you get the horseradish kick. It was an interesting combination.

The surf and turf combined a lobster tail with a perfectly cooked filet mignon covered with mushrooms and red wine sauce. This was a top entree for me on this sailing. Rona’s bucatini with sausage was somewhat unremarkable, though it was topped with plenty of shaved and shaken parmesan. For some reason, it had broccoli rather than broccoli rabe. The lobster tail made up for it.

I ordered the Chocolate Ganache Tarte for dessert with some coffee, although the espresso in the chocolate maybe should’ve satisfied any need for caffeine. I ate half, Rona had a bite, and we left the rest over.

It was rich and delicious though, but we were just full and wanted to make the 9:30 PM showing of Mainstage. We said our final goodbyes to everyone and headed straight down to the theater’s reserved Retreat seating on deck 5.

Mainstage is a high-energy, concert-style production that’s something approaching a music festival, with aerialists, vibrant light effects, and the live cast performing pop and rock anthems from artists like Pink, The Killers, and Elton John. There’s no story here, just awesome music and terrific performances. It was a fun way to cap off the sailing.

That’s a wrap on day 7, with an afternoon in Santorini sandwiched between our morning and evening on the Celebrity Xcel. 

Keep an eye on the Xcel Mediterranean 2026 page or subscribe down below to be notified when the next trip report goes live. Next up is our Sea Days report, with more Bazaar entertainment, chill time, and the Captain Kirk Rock Show. After that, we’ll have Disembarkation in Athens (Piraeus) and the Acropolis. Stay tuned!

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